Go bouldering The most important element of climbing fitness is power endurance in the forearms, says Dave Binney, head coach of the British junior climbing team. “Combined with good handgrip strength, this means you can climb for longer without fatigue. Bouldering, using short, high-intensity moves, is one of the best ways to develop this.”
Update your kit Equipment improves all the time. “For example, boots have stickier soles, and ropes and karabiners are much lighter,” Binney says. “It’s worth investing in new stuff if yours is dated.”
Get flexible Flexibility is vital for climbing economically. “If you can’t get a limb into a position where it puts least load on your hands, you’ll tire fast. It has to be active flexibility, though – backed with the strength to get your limb into that position.”
Fall off “All climbers can be hampered by their head,” Binney says. “Fear affects your ability to hang on, then you overgrip and get tired. The key to combating fear is first to have 100% faith in your equipment and knots, so check them before ascent. Second, trust your belayer [the person holding the other end of the rope in case you fall] – practise leaning out at agreed points without looking down to check on them. Last, allow yourself to fall in a controlled situation – you’ll see it’s not as bad as you think.”
Hatch a plan The best tip for a successful climb is to plan it. “Step back and look at it – where the tricky parts are, where you can rest, what equipment you might need. And always climb with people who support and praise you. A competitive, self-interested group will ruin your confidence.”
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